The start of the hike looking out over the ocean
meandering our way along the cliffs back towards Busan
Busan’s famous Hongdae Beach in the background. Too bad it’s winter
Fisherman packs it in for the day
Korea has some very nice coffeeshops
posing perfectly for me
Now on the other side of the bridge
lights on
perfect!
funky
One last walk around before taking the bullet train to Seoul
Korea likes it’s grungy style artwork
last look at the skyline
Seoul is up next
Walking out of the train station in Busan was a harsh shock to the system! This is actually winter. It was cloudy, below freezing, and the wind was really whipping from over the ocean. It felt like 10-15 degrees. If it stays like this I’m going to have to buy some more clothes, a hoody and light puffy jacket are not gonna cut it! I made my way to a little guesthouse near the station, up on the 6th floor. Decent little place up on the 6th floor of an apartment building. It seemed to be all Koreans who stayed there, but unlike in Japan it was much easier to strike up a conversation, and people actually say Hi to you first sometimes! The guy I met in the lounge gave me a good recommendation for a nature walk in Busan and a girl who lives in Seoul gave me some trendy areas to check out when I got there. Nice.
For my first full day it was time have a nice stroll along the waterfront to the largest seafood market in the country, and one of the biggest in the world. The weather had improved to 40 and sunny, very manageable. No need to do any jacket shopping just yet. I crossed a bridge overlooking the port, which had probably 100 tugboats parked, plus lots of old looking ships and industrial equipment, nice looking high rises in the background. An old vs new juxtaposition. I took a detour to observe the ship-building. It felt like I was walking back into the 80’s or something, everything felt very dated, lots of rusting iron, chipped paint, big clunky structures, massive bolts, steel chains that looked like they weighed 100 tons. Some of the boats seemed like they could be from a Mad Max movie, or I suppose Water World with Kevin Costner might be a more fitting example! I liked it though. It did not feel like Japan.
The building with the bird wings is the fish market, surprisingly nice structure for a fish market!
As I kept going towards the fish market the buildings got noticeably nicer. I knew I was getting close when I stumbled into a small market area of ladies in thick jackets sitting around with buckets of fish in front of them, with little tables where’d they cut up the fish for their customers. It didn’t smell particularly nice.
The next building was the infamous Jagalchi market, and it was huge, and actually very nice looking. The first floor was just halls and halls of vendors, with electronic markers designating exactly which part of the market you were at. All the vendors wore bright knee length rubber boots and gloves up to their elbows. The fish weren’t just sitting there out in the open, they were all in tanks with bubbling water. Some filtration system I think, to help keep the fish alive, barely. People in Korea like to know that their fish are fresh! It also didn’t really smell much at all, which is pretty impressive for a massive seafood market! There were so many weird things that I could only guess what they were! A lot of it did not look appetizing. You could choose your selection and have one of the many restaurants on the 2nd floor cook it for you. Shockingly expensive though!
An octopus sits in a tray of sea penises
mmm sea cucumber
I opted to keep walking, and after the main section of the indoor market was the outdoor walking street market that seemed to go on and on forever. Just an insane amount of dead sea life in one place. The scale of it just did not seem sustainable. As a scuba diver, it did make me a bit sad, seeing so many beautiful underwater creatures taken out of their environment, the squids, octopus and cuttlefish especially. It did make for some interesting photos though. For lunch I stopped at the popular section of the street where there were lots of stalls that had pots of bubbling broth. I grabbed an open seat and chose the one that most people seemed to be eating, I wasn’t exactly sure what it was, but I’ll give it a try. It was liver! I can stomach some liver, but it’s really not my thing and I had massive chunks of it, I ate about half. Hmm, I shoulda ate at the 2nd floor of the fish market I guess.
lunch
After that it was onto Gamcheon cultural village, which was built mostly by refugees from the Korean War, a slum that sat in the hills, yet close enough to work in the port. In the early 2000’s it underwent a revitalization campaign to beautify it a bit, repainting the buildings and adding artwork and murals. As the #1 thing in tripadvisor in Busan it felt a bit underwhelming, but it was interesting enough to wander around the tiny alleyways and steep stairs. The residents were mostly older and many had trouble with all the steps. I felt bad for the residents having all these tourists wander around right outside their homes. There’s signs around saying to respect the residents privacy. Hopefully some of the tourism dollars generated goes back into the community.
I hopped on a bus to get down the hill and back into the city center to get to the top of the Busan Tower as the sun set. The views are nice, but I must say it might be the worst lookout tower I’ve ever been in for taking good photos. The glass panes have some sort of weird honeycomb inserts in them. At 6 pm the sign said there was a fireworks show, so I excitedly stuck around for that to take photos of the fireworks over the city skyline, but it turned out the fireworks display was the glass windows lighting up as an electronic firework display. So lame! That’s why the glass wasn’t completely see through! Aghghgh.
See all those little dots in the sky?!
I didn’t mention it was Christmas Eve, so when I got back to the main strip, it was completely jammed with people making their way over to the giant lit up Christmas Tree. Like I said before, Koreans love Christmas! At some point the police cleared the street for a parade, complete with a live band playing Christmas tunes. Nice.
For dinner I made my way to the street food night market, which was a complete zoo, but I tried lots of new things!
kimbap
Walking around at night, the tent restaurants were interesting. Koreans also have the tiny venue places.
putting out the charcoal bins
The lovely looking (but dated) Commodore Hotel
China/Russian Town
Then when I was walking home, I passed a section called Texas Street. I had to see this! Would there be any Texas style beef brisket or BBQ pulled pork?! Definitely not! There was one American themed restaurant, but the majority of the street seemed to be mostly dead with closed Chinese and Russian restaurants plus a few neon-lighted hostess bars, staffed with Filipina girls calling you in. Hmmm. That was not what I was expecting for Texas Street! A very interesting day though.
Texas street during the day
I started in Busan, which is Korea’s second largest city, and I stayed in the older part of town, so my first impressions might be a bit a bit different than if I started in a ritzy part of Seoul, or even the fancier part of Busan. Walking around for a day or two here’s what I thought.
More colors, more loose wiring
Definitely a different feel than Japan, moreso than I would have thought. Buildings are different, more high rise apartments, more gleaming glass windows, more colors and funky design elements. Some look nice from afar, but not particularly so when close up. Busan in particular just has a more industrial feel, being a port city.
Walking through the streets definitely felt grittier, but of course not dangerous in any way. It reminded me more of China. Some of the buildings were showing their age, some loose wiring, missing paint, occasional cracked sidewalks, ugly concrete sections etc. Things were generally very clean, but a you notice a bit of random trash and cigarette butts here and there, piles of rubbish occasionally out in the open, nice looking storefronts but kind of grimy back alleyways. So like almost all cities not in Japan. It really is amazing how clean Japan manages to keep everywhere.
More American influence. Although this was a quasi red-light area, not a Texan food street!
More people that look like normal people, by American standards anyway. Not dressed up so much. More blue collar types. More jeans, more athletic wear, things like yoga pants and uggs, sweatpants and sneakers. More bright colors. I swear most women in Japan only wear some shade of black or charcoal or some off-white oatmeal, beige, etc and that’s it. Some of the younger Koreans dressed a bit edgier. Some interesting haircuts, certainly more died hair. K-Pop influence? I saw a guy walking around in cut-off jean shorts and converses in the middle of winter, ha. I don’t think you’d see that in Japan.
A bright red puffy jacket would look more out of place in Japan
Surprisingly better English. Easier to ask questions or order at a restaurant or talk to the reception at a guesthouse. On the train to Seoul I actually talked to the guy sitting next to me for basically the whole ride. Also more American influence, partially due to our perpetual military presence.
People willing to approach or engage you in English. Even something simple like “can I help you find anything?” when at a store. Or asking where you’re from, or making a random remark about the weather. One girl stopped and asked if I was a photographer, and if she could see the photo on my camera. She said that’s really cool, have a nice day and kept on her way. At a convenience store the guy behind the counter told me that I had an interesting choice of fashion! I’m sure it was tongue and cheek as I was wearing a pretty ugly rainbow colored beanie with my blue puffy jacket, but after coming from Japan it was kind of refreshing to hear someone say anything like that. Both those two mundane examples literally never happen in Japan!
More street food. Even though it was winter there were still a bunch of stalls open selling all sorts of mostly unhealthy stuff. And an entire nightmarket for just for quick bites. Although it wasn’t that quick because the place was packed! There’s also tent restaurants outside that have just 2-3 small tables or perhaps just a bar that are covered by a see-through tarp material.
Communal eating is the norm. The places with bar seating are way less prevalent than in Japan. People almost always seem to eat in a group. So many restaurants have the type of tables that have the grill or heater in the middle for cooking meats or keeping a big pot of soup/stew nice and hot. Most meals are served with lots of small plates called banchan, which are meant to be shared. Korean BBQ places generally won’t serve a single person, as they’re taking up a whole table. It’s not exactly ideal when you’re a solo traveler!
Spiciness! Lots of Korean dishes have a real kick to them, unlike in Japan. My first night in Korea I went for spicy chicken wings, the hottest ones they had. The sticky glaze was a nice mix of some sweet Asian flavors and scorching heat.
More bus based. At least where I was at it was easier to take the bus around than the subway, which would be rare in Japan. In two days in Korea I took the bus more than I did in 3.5 weeks of Japan.
Crazy menus at the tea and coffeeshops. I’ve never seen so many different flavors of coffee and tea drinks! I didn’t have that much tea, but I had a brown sugar flavored latte and a marshmallow one. Kinda sweet, but not bad!
Seafood on display. Walking down any restaurant street in Busan you’re gonna see their tanks out front, so you know what you’re getting is fresh. And I don’t know if Japan is the same way, but they really do eat all sorts of seafood that are not exactly on the palates of westerners. At the huge seafood market, I had no clue what a lot of the stuff was, and it did not look particularly appealing!
They also love Christmas!
Delivery food. I guess it’s extremely common in Korea to order almost anything as delivery, and they have the guys on motorcycles zipping around town to get orders in on time. This is really annoying actually, these guys drive like complete jackasses.
K-pop! While J-pop is a thing, it’s nowhere near the industry that South Korea has. On the S Korea facebook group there were plenty of people in the “BTS Army” who mostly wanted to visit Korea because of their huge interest in K-pop and BTS in particular. I guess one of the band member’s dad has a café in Busan and it’s very popular with the fans. That was not on my list of places to visit though.
More drinking. You see people with a whole bottle of Soju (rice wine) that’s about 15% alchohol to drink with their meal. More of a clubbing culture as well. Everyone is working for the weekend!
This guys looks to be about 3 bottles deep
That’s all I can think of off the top of my head!
My last stop was Fukuoka, which I’m going to gloss over because I didn’t really do anything in Fukuoka, besides the Christmas Market, but I did stay in an interesting cube hotel! It was one of the floors of a nicer hotel, so the lobby, bar, and restaurant were all really classy, and the room included a free happy hour from 5-6, not bad! The bed was laid out like a sofa, and you pressed a button on the iphone in the room (it’s like an iphone 3) to make it recline all the way into the bed, or as much as you wanted. The iphone also controlled the lights. There’s nowhere to lock your stuff up, you just pull down your shade and assume no one would ever take anything from your bedroom area, and they don’t! But still a difficult concept to get used to when you’ve got a laptop, DSLR and some lenses in the bag!
free drinks!
Then I also had an interesting experience on my flight. It was a 8:30 am flight, and I guess security didn’t open until 8am, and because of that the security line was wrapped literally around the airport. At some point around 45 minutes before the flight when it became clear that there was no way I would make this flight, I went back to the airline flight desk, told them I was going to miss the flight, and asked about booking another one. They were looking at me like I was speaking Swahili, and told me to go back in the line, someone will come. Uhhh ok.
So now I’m back at the end of the line, wondering what is going to happen. I still assume I’m missing this flight but we’ll see. It’s a cheap flight, so not the end of the world, but still really sucks. Maybe 10 minutes later a lady with a placard comes around yelling Busan, Busan, Busan and then people appeared out of thin air to join her, we formed a group that got taken to our own private security entrance, getting through in 5 minutes, and onto the other side. Boom! A private security entrance, what a world. And for immigration all I had to do was scan my passport, it flashed green and I was good to go. Awesome. You rock Japan!
Literally any other airline in another country you are basically on your own in the airport. Unless you ask people to cut in line, you’re just gonna miss that flight, there’s no one there to help people in danger of missing their flight. You’re most likely screwed. So that was a nice way to leave the country! Although I do wish I knew about this arrangement ahead of time, that was the most stressful morning of the whole trip! An hour later I was in a new country, South Korea.
Final Thoughts:
I really enjoyed Japan! It’s pretty hard not to. Everything is sooo smooth. From the bullet trains, to the pavement, to the tonkotsu ramen broth. A Japan trip is really travel on easy mode, so low stress. Sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride. Lost? People are more than willing to help if you ask. Miss your train? There’s another one in 10 minutes. Traveling by bullet train is basically the best form of travel, period. It is so choice. The rail pass is great. One day I wanted to edit some photos and see some scenery so I hopped on the bullet for an hour and a half, and then took it right back. Fantastic. It’s also probably the most enjoyable country i’ve been to ride a bicycle!
Just look at that pavement, yessss, you can just feel how smooth it is on a bike
One of the very few things that tripped me up traveling was sometimes finding my line in the mega train stations where there’s like 14 different lines connecting. Besides that, let’s see, occasionally you’ll know exactly where something is on google maps, but it’s in a building with 20 floors and you need to know which floor it’s on. And hmm, every once in a while there would be places without an English menu. I suppose I probably screwed up some etiquette stuff here and there too, but tourists get a free pass. After wracking my head, that’s about all I can think of! I don’t think there was a single time when I was upset or angry with anyone or anything really. Literally all of my plans went right according to plan for the most part.
Uhh it’s somewhere in here!
One of the only things I found disappointing was traveling in low season and meeting other travelers. It wasn’t really easy. It’s also not exactly a backpacker hotspot to begin with. If you’re staying in a cube hotel, forget about it, nobody talks to each other at all. Even other foreigners you see also seem to adopt the very Japanese custom of never talking to a random person. Besides maybe a bartender, I don’t think a single person came up to me chat, ask what I was doing in Japan, or anything along those lines. But I was also never asked to buy something, asked for money, never had to haggle over anything, they basically just leave you completely alone! It’s certainly not a bad thing! But I wouldn’t mind a random conversation or chat every once in a while! And I suppose the constant mask wearing doesn’t help.
The Japanese are almost still at 100% percent mask usage in public. Even outdoors and socially distanced, riding a bicycle, or going for a hike, people are still masking! The only people you ever see not masking are tourists, and sometimes some rebellious high school students. One of the cultural phenomena of Japan is that it has a very strict code of public and social conduct. So the power of peer pressure to conform and fit in is especially strong, nobody wants to break it. Until the government says mask are 100% not necessary outdoors, I don’t see the Japanese changing anything soon! But I certainly would have preferred not wearing a mask all the time, heh.
I actually thought the constant neatness and orderliness of Japan might make things a bit boring, but it really wasn’t the case. It’s almost a spectacle in and of itself, how well things run and operate in Japan. I still have some trouble grasping how there’s no litter anywhere, how the roads and sidewalks are always in such perfect condition, the temples never have as much as a spot of paint missing, the bars, restaurants, the public spaces, the toilets especially are so nice and clean. Like plenty of places in the world are kept to a high standard of cleanliness, but nowhere is like Japan. Pooping in a public place is no worry at all!
Traveling a bunch in developed countries also usually doesn’t excite me that much, but there’s just so so so many things that are new and different in Japan that it’s a real treat to see. Everything from the malls, to the public baths, cube hotels, electronic gadgets, ordering food, the city planning, its all so interesting to observe - as well as compare and contrast with the US. Well, Japan wins the vast majority of things! Oh man there are so many things I wish the US had that are more like Japan, but having efficiently designed, walkable and bikeable cities with excellent public transit is a big, huge, winner. Also the restaurant culture where you’re able to have all these small, unique bars and restaurants packed in different nooks and crannies of the city is just superb. The tiny bars that seat 6-8 people are really fun and basically nothing like you find in the US!
I also think that smaller food shops that specialize in just one or only a few things is much better than all the places in the US that come with pages of menu items. And as a solo traveler I do love all the bar seating! These places do one thing and do it right. If you want tonkatsu ramen, you go here. If you want curry you go here, if you want tempura, you go there. One of my favorite food experiences was riding my bike in Kyoto down a walking street and smelling something outrageously good. I stopped my bike and there was a very small shop and it was just one item, crème brulee donuts. I rang the bell and the owner came out from the back and I bought a donut. He took out his blow torch and carmelized the sugar right in front of me. Fantastic.
so good
Some of the coffeeshops are the same way. They don’t mess around with espresso drinks and certainly not frappucinos and the like. They have just a few types of very high quality beans from select countries, its drip coffee, and its black. That’s what you get. Love it! People in Japan have good taste, and they show it. That’s why you see certain random places with lines down the block. Standards are high and people consider it worth the wait for high quality food.
Eating in Japan was great. And that’s from someone who was just stopping in at random non-high end places that looked good with no real recommendations. In the cold weather I especially enjoyed the curry places with deep fried chicken or pork katsu, mmm. Also having eel! A fantastic food, I can’t believe it’s not eaten hardly at all in the US except as sushi. And then there’s these Izakaya restaurants that are small servings of different things, lots of sashimi, but also lots of interesting vegetable dishes. Great. And Yakinuku – grilling your raw meat on small griddles in front of you, lovely. Of course there’s the sushi, high quality and affordable, I actually ate this less than I expected. But that’s only because I didn’t realize how fun the sushi belt conveyor restaurants are until the end! And finally the ramen, my staple meal, so good, so many types. So rich and comforting in the winter. The quick and easy bar seating is perfect. Mmm.
Oh and did I say I love the breakfasts? They love light and fluffy. The pancakes are about 2 inches high! The French toast is similar. They load it with a bunch of crème on top, so I guess it’s not light in calories. And the omelets that you slice open and they ooze out everywhere, yesss. Light and fluffy applies to desserts too, the cheesecakes are like a combination of angel food cake and cheesecake. The egg tarts just melt in your mouth. And perhaps my favorite snack desert was a sweet potato cake-like pastry, shaped into a little cylinder, served hot and fresh. I’m going to find this recipe and make it when I go home. Maybe start my own shop. It’s that good!
And in all this writing I didn’t even touch on how beautiful the parks, temples, castles and shrines are, or how Japan has such a long and interesting history. There really is a lot to like!
I was there 3.5 weeks and I felt like that was just about the perfect amount of time for me. Maybe a whole month would have been best, but not much more than that. I could have spent a couple more days doing absolutely nothing but riding the trains around! But I had just about reached my quota for spending time by myself. I certainly would like to go back at some point, maybe do the north in Sapporo or the south in Okinawa. And cherry blossom season is still on the list, even though I know it’s a double edged sword because the whole country sounds like a zoo for those couple of weeks! But overall Japan exceeded my expectations and I highly recommend it, especially for most tourists who want a convenient easy travel, fantastic cuisine and cocktails, beautiful outdoor spaces and historical sites, and just everything clean, cared for, and well run!
Back on the bullet (BotB) to Hiroshima, but making a pit stop in a place called Himeji that has one of Japan’s grandest castles. Making a pit stop is usually a PITA traveling with luggage but in Japan of course they have a great setup of large coin lockers at all the stations so it’s easy to throw the big backpack into the locker, grab the key and go.
The first walk out of the train station is pretty pretty great. You exit onto the main street that leads directly to castle, which is sitting up on a hill, overlooking the city. It feels like it’s staring you right in the face even though it’s more than a kilometer away. The castle makes an excellent backdrop for photos as well, it’s such a cool centerpiece. Japan does such a great job of blending the old and the new. Although the ‘old’ usually isn’t actually very old, considering so much of the country was destroyed by the US air raids in WW2, but they’ve done an impeccable job with restoring cultural and traditional sites. And to the US’s credit, they gave lots of money and few restrictions for the urban renewal after the war, and didn’t have the Soviets to compete with for influence, economic or ideological.
dark clouds gathering
I paid my 600 yen to go inside and have a look around the famed Himeji Castle, aka white heron castle. It went from sunny to snowing while I was there, which felt fitting. This one was built in 1333 by some military dude, I can’t remember all this history. But castles in Japan are actually pretty boring inside! When the castles were in use they were mostly a storehouse for weapons and ammunition and the top floors were used for strategy meetings, but nobody lived inside them and they weren’t really decorated or anything. You could climb the stairs up to the 6thfloor for the view, but there’s about 100% chance you get stuck behind someone old or injured going at about 1 stair per minute.
Walking around the city was nice as well, they have a walking street that’s all lit up for Christmas. And of course I couldn’t stop taking photos with the castle as the backdrop! Then as I was getting into the train station the sun came out just before it set, illuminating the castle in that striking red hue and nothing else. Perfect finish for the day! Then I was BotB and in Hiroshima in an hour. Time flies on the train.
In Hiroshima there wasn’t anything going on at the hostel, real shocker there, so I walked around town a bit and got some ramen, always a winner. It was entertaining watching the electric railway cars go around town, some are modern, but a bunch are cool retro looking ones. I really enjoyed taking photos of them! Apparently trains, including taking photographs of them, is a very common hobby in Japan. And I get it!
The next morning it was an early start. I actually hopped in the electric railway car, but it wasn’t like the buses, and I couldn’t figure out how to pay or buy a ticket! So I hopped off the next stop and walked to the Peace Park. I had the time and the weather was great. Upon arriving the first thing you see is the brown brick Atomic Bomb Dome, in stark contrast with the sleek modern glass plated buildingto s next to it. The dome is one of the few structures that remained standing after the A-bomb was dropped, I guess because the building was almost directly underneath the bomb detonation so it didn’t get hit as much by the horizontal blast forces that radiated outward. It’s pretty wild to see, and think about.
You cross the bridge and there’s the Peace Park that has an eternal flame blazing, in the name of world peace, not surprisingly. It was very quiet when I was there, just a few people milling around. This is also the site of the Atomic Bomb Museum, which gives a good account of the daily life of people in Hiroshima in the 40’s, the immediate aftermath of the bomb, the stories of the survivors, horrifying photos, and the longer term struggles the locals faced dealing with all the loss of life and family members, radiation sickness, and rebuilding. It sounds like many people made what looked like recoveries and then soon their hair started falling out and they were dead not long after. And then of course of the people that did survive the short term, many died of cancer down the road. A very sobering but worthwhile visit.
After this I had some time to wander around, grab something to eat, take a look at the Hiroshima Castle, and eventually catch the train to Miyijama, which is where you go to catch the 10 minute ferry over to Miyajima Island, the site of the famous Torii shrine that sits just off the beach, the base submerged at high tide.
There’s also a bit of hiking on the island, but I really didn’t have enough time for it if I wanted to see anything else around. Oh well, I’d walked enough this trip – averaging 9.5 miles a day! First order of business was the grilled oyster stand. The island is famous for it’s oysters, and they’re big ones! I’m no oyster aficionado, but they were pretty tasty. I then checked out the shrine at low tide, hung out with the deer, stopped in a temple. It’s all pretty touristy. Then it was on a cable car to the top of the island, the views were fantastic!
The next day it was raining, so I had a chance to go out with my umbrella and long lens and take some shots of the electric railway cars in the drizzle. Loving the drizzles!
After running around for two straight weeks I had decided I was going to take it a bit easier in Osaka! Although of course on arrival there’s no check in until 4pm so I dropped off my bag and had to figure out what to do for the next few hours until check-in. Turns out there’s a very famous fish market a few blocks away, so sure, sounds good. I hadn’t had lunch yet. Oh man, what an easy place to spend some dough! I had a bunch of pieces of sashimi, some scallops and clams grilled right in the shell, eel, a crab leg, mmm great stuff. Expensive lunch though, as everything is pretty small portions and surely tourist prices!
A bit later I went back to the guesthouse and checked in, it was run by a couple who spoke really good English, the girl had lived in New York and the guy had done a study abroad program in Iowa! The guesthouse had opened just before Covid, so obviously it was a bit tough for them, but I was really happy to give places like this my business. Beats a corporate hotel for sure.
In the first floor common area I ran into a Canadian guy from Montreal and we decided to grab some dinner together, a well known okonamaki place recommended by the guesthouse owner. She pinned it on google maps and it didn’t even have an English name, which I suppose is a good sign! The okonamaki is some sort of pancake looking dish filled with a bunch of stuff and griddled on the outsides. I ordered the pork one, which had strips of bacon on the outsides, and it was pretty great. The restaurant has a grill surface that stretches all the way around the whole bar eating area, so you definitely don’t have to worry about your meal getting cold!
Next we just wandered around the downtown area, Donaburi, which is famous for it’s street lights, elaborate restaurant signs, and takoyaki – fried octopus balls. The lines are a mile long for the most popular spots. Oh and the most famous icon is the Glico Man, built sometime in the 30’s. You basically have to take your photo in front of it, which even though I hardly ever take photos of myself, I did do the obligatory running man pose!
In Osaka I realized there was a very popular Japan travel meetup thread on Reddit, and I posted on it and got quite a few responses. So the next day I met up with a girl from Singapore, Ling, for lunch at a place she made reservations for. It was a place that specialized in one thing only, fried rice topped with and an omelette and huge portion of bbq eel! It was great, really great, and I’m glad I found someone who knew the various food scenes in Osaka better than I did! I mean I never ever ever would have found a place like this. Ling said it’s quite famous on Singapore social media!
We parted ways after lunch, but would reunite later in the evening for an even bigger Reddit meetup, an American guy from NYC and a Kuwaiti girl who was living in DC. I really like the random meet ups of internet people! We went to TeamLabs Osaka, I already posted about TeamLabs Tokyo, but it was the same group who redid a botanical garden with all sort of weird stuff and trippy music. It was fine to walk around but it was much more boring than the immersive TeamLabs Tokyo experience.
After that me and the NYC guy parted ways with the girls and were heading to a techno/house concert that he heard might be good. Seriously people do so much more research than me, I just go to place and wander around without any real foresight or planning!
But the show didn’t start until midnight, so we ventured off to some random bars. They have these highrise buildings that have bars on every floor, so we basically just found some random spots to have a drink. He was pretty into the Japanese whiskey so we had a few to sip, neat, in each bar. Most places have a very good selection as it seems to certainly be the most popular drink in Japan. And everywhere has Highballs, whiskey and soda water, but you wouldn’t normally drink that with higher end stuff. One of our bartenders was a rapper, who gave a 30 second impromptu performance, we had no idea what he was rapping about, but it was just a fun, random experience.
That would be some foreshadowing for the rest of the night, because we would be treated to lots more music in Japanese that we couldn’t understand, but could appreciate. We rocked up to the venue, also a very unassuming places as usual in Japan, at about 12:15 and things were just kicking off. It was a small venue, but it did sell out, so it was pretty packed. They had rotating DJs every 40 minutes or so. My friend from NYC had also done some DJing so he was pretty in tune with the ins and outs and the technical aspects of each performer. My critiques were more along the lines of this guy is kinda good, this guy is kinda lame. Then at some point a rap duo came out, who weren’t on the set list, but EVERYONE knew who they were, and they went off for 20 minutes with people just going nuts, so that was definitely the highlight of the night. They’d also use a bit of English here and there, which was entertaining. It’s nice to meet other people who know of the less touristy things to do that I don’t!
We left around 3:30, but it was supposed to keep going until 5 or 6 am. No thanks! The next day I met another guy from the Reddit thread, a Korean Canadian guy, to go to the aquarium, which is quite famous. They have one huge tank which is full of all the cool big stuff, sharks, manta rays, whale sharks, you name it. Then you slowly circle that tank downwards in a spiral, with lots of other displays as well. Of course the stuff hanging out at the top of that huge tank are different than the stuff at the bottom, so your views change as you go down. Very engaging design.
And then I met up with the Kuwaiti girl for dinner, she had a Halal grilled meat place in mind (Yakinuku) so we ordered a whole bunch of wagyu-like cuts of beef – I wasn’t sure if it was officially “wagyu” but the marbling was fantastic and the taste was superb. You just put for 30 seconds to a minute on each side to get a little sear and that’s it! It was a fantastic meal. But damn, I was going over the food budget in Japan!
And here’s a few shots I took in the rain. I love the light drizzle and the lights!
The next morning was one of those, “Ughhh I guess I’ll wake up early” to see the Arashiyama bamboo forest, one of the ‘must-see’s of Kyoto. So obviously it will get pretty crowded. I saw some photos of it during cherry blossom season, it looked a line to get into a BTS concert. But at 8 am, on weekday, in the off-season, there were only a couple other people around. Very cool place to walk around, super peaceful.
There’s also a bunch of temple around there (of course) so I spent the next few hours checking them out. They’re all walking distance too, and it was another beautiful day. When it was cloudy/rainy every day when I first arrived in Tokyo I thought I might be in trouble doing Japan in December, but the weather was working out pretty well. Once again temple had something different going on – a cemetery built back deep in the woods, a moss garden, and one place had all the maple leaves recently fallen, making the entire ground completely red. Beautiful. The only place the leaves looked better off the trees!
In the evening I visited the Fushimi Inari Shrine, one of Kyoto’s oldest and most historic landmarks, dating back to 711. Inari is a traditional god of food and rice. In the 1500’s the thousands of torii gates were added along the pathway up the sacred mountain, and that’s what most tourists are there to see. It really is quite impressive. The only thing that bothered me was there was no view from the shrine at the top! Its just trees! For some reason I assumed I’d be watching the sunset over the city, but that was not the case. I had some nice post sunset colors back at the bottom though.
Next it was off to the very touristy downtown geisha district, which surprisingly still has geishas around and you see them flitting from one building to another every once in a while. In two nights I saw three in total, so it’s not like they’re everywhere. It felt too rude to snap a photo of them from the front, but I did take some photos after they walked past. Geisha literally means art-person and it was their job to entertain guests with song and dance, as well as be skilled at calligraphy, teahouse rituals, and the art of conversation. They are mostly found nowadays in high end teahouses and restaurants called ryotei – where the private tatami rooms are used booked by business men or politicians, by referral only, and served by geishas. I would not be experiencing this part of the Japanese experience!
My meal for that night would be a little lower end, a large selection of meats on sticks, kushiyaki. Still very tasty!
Next day was a trip to Nara (which means deer in Japanese) the capital of Japan from 710-784. It’s most famous temple has a Buddha hall, and whatever specific type of Buddha is in there, it’s largest form of it in the world. So I guess that kind of makes it a big deal! And then there’s all the deer scampering around. In Shintoism deer are holy animals, helpers of the Gods, and there’s hundreds of them in the park, in the streets, waiting in front of shops etc. They’re fully capable of feeding themselves, but many are lazy and prefer to go after the deer crackers from the tourists that you can buy from many different streetside vendors.
Although they’re tame, they get quite aggressive when the crackers come out. Some of the males, who already have had their horns sawed off, will keep butting you with their head until you give them one! It’s better the keep the packet of crackers in your pocket and discretely hand out some here and there rather than take out the whole thing and start a feeding frenzy. I saw a few people just throw their whole pack on the ground because they got an uncomfortable amount of attention from the deer! So that’s the fun, unique thing to do in Nara, hang out with the deer.
they’re coming!
Japan’s cultural heart! It was the capital city of Japan from 764 to 1868 until Tokyo took the reigns, and sometimes called the 1,000 year capital. It was largely spared from US bombing during WW2 so most of the temples and shrines stayed intact. I guess it was near the top of the list for cities to drop the atomic bomb on, largely because of the tremendous impact it would have on the Japanese people, but was fortunately reconsidered. If I was lucky I’d be there in time to catch the very tail end of the fall colors.
When you step off the train you’re greeted with the sight of Kyoto Tower, built in the 1963 to coincide with the 1964 Olympics, a very optimistic time in Japan. Although it does draw some controversy because it (and the train station) clashes a lot with the rest of Kyoto’s traditional style!
Before I went to my guesthouse I wanted to stop at a temple first before the sun went down, this one in particular being one of the not-so-touristy places in Kyoto and I was very impressed! The temples were huge and I guess one of the largest all wooden structures in the world. The gingko trees still had their leaves too. Good start Kyoto!
The next day I rented a bike, the weather was perfect, 50’s and sunny and it was off to see the temples. There’s almost too many to count all around the city, so I was just going to a specific area east of the city. One of the first ones I stopped by was the Kiyomizu Dera, originally built in the 700’s, then further expanded in the 1600’s using not a single nail. Impressive carpentry! In Japan there is a phrase just like “to take the plunge” which means to jump off the stage at Kiyomizu, which people did because it is said if they survived their wish would come true. 85% of people who attempted survived the 43 foot jump. The practice is now discontinued.
That area was packed with people, but the further on I got the temples and gardens had much fewer tourists and were quite peaceful. Every single one seemed to have a little something different to offer, whether it was tucked away pagodas, water features, bamboo forests, zen gardens etc. The smaller places had just a handful of people walking around. Of course I was a bit bummed I was too late for the real fall foliage season, but the amount of tourists in town during that time does sound kinda nuts, so I must say this was pretty nice.
To finish the day I went to the famous Kinkaku-ji temple, aka the golden pavilion. It was built for a powerful shogun (military warlord who ran the show in the name of the Emperor. The top two floors are literally made from gold leaves. The entire grounds were mostly destroyed, but the main pavilion remained intact, and then that was burned by an arsonist in 1950. So this is mostly a restoration to it’s former grandeur.
Then it was time to bike home, which has to be the most stress free city biking on the planet. Where else do you see mothers biking their children to and from school, or just around town? They have specially designed bikes just for this purpose, and they’re everywhere. Every street or sidewalk has a bike lane, and it’s customary to not ride too fast to avoid bad crashes. I was the fastest biker heh. Then there’s the side streets, which are perfectly paved and have almost no cars on them. Just an amazing way to get around.
No cars! Perfectly paved
Then at some point on walking street with lots of shops and restaurants (and walking streets – another thing we do have enough of!) I smelled something so good I had to stop. It was a crème brulee donut shop. The guy hand blowtorches the top to caramelize the sugar right in front of you! Oh man I really like Japan. Then I’d have some pork katsu (fried pork in a curry sauce) for dinner. Good stuff.
Here’s a quick one, I was on the train to a city I’d heard good things about, Kanazawa. From the train station I walked 7-8 minutes to my guesthouse, dropped off the big back, then stopped in a small coffeeshop that specializes in drip coffee of a couple of types of beans - I had the Ethiopian - and went on my way. There’s a big castle, park, and series of gardens set right smack dab in the center of town, so sounds like a good place to start. I could (and do) walk around Japanese cities all day.
So obviously it’s very nice walking through the gardens, but there’s also a bunch of smaller museums around, so I picked one of the art museums and killed some time looking at some of the ancient artifacts and scrolls etc. Then I found my way to the downtown area and got in some nice photos of the sky when the sun was going down. Although I ran out of time for the Samurai district, doh!
One of the museums
the main strip
Adjacent to main strip downtown is a little pub street, although I don’t know if you’d call them pubs, more like tiny bars. But having these alleyways with all the tiny bars and restaurants is just one of the absolute coolest things about Japan. It’s cheap and easy to get a liquor license and I guess the costs aren’t that crazy to rent out such a small space. Walking into locally owned 7-8 seat bars (or food joints) all with their own set-up and vibes, is just something that’s almost unimaginable in the US. Although it was kinda early in the evening for anything much to be going on in them when I walked by.
just a random building I liked
Geisha district at night, nobody around
Of course I got back into the guesthouse, but no one was really around and it was another very chill night in Japan. The next morning I had the contemporary art museum on the menu, which I got there early for, because I guess it’s popular. Although their most famous exhibit you had to buy a pass for in advance, so I was out of luck. Weak. It really wasn’t my favorite museum. Alas.
It was raining outside, but I still wanted to get to the traditional Edo-era section of town, also called the Geisha district. And of course like always it’s gorgeous, lots of shops to stop in for cute gifts and snacks and desserts, and girls walking around in their kimonos to get their photos taken. The place looked especially photogenic in the rain with all the umbrellas out. I really don’t mind this occasional drizzle in Japan!
And that was my quick stop in Kanazawa! Soon I was back on the bullet train to Kyoto. Although I was annoyed I didn’t see the Samurai District, hmmph. This should have been a two-nighter, plenty of stuff to do in Kanazawa!
It was a 3 hour train ride from Nagano, and I had to transfer off the bullet train to a normal train that ran it’s way through the foothills. Super pretty and relaxing. None of these trains are crowded so I can spread out, switch over to more scenic side etc. I arrived in Takayama around noon, so it was the usual - drop the bag off at the guesthouse and then go wander around.
Takayama is known for having some really nice restored Edo period building in it’s downtown touristy strip area so that’s where I headed. And of course it’s spotlessly clean and perfect looking, Japan just does so many thing right!
Just look at those streets
The other thing that the area is known for is their beef, called Hida beef. I think it’s wagyu or maybe it’s a variety of it? It has that same crazy marbling throughout! I ordered some beef skewers and raw beef nigiri, mmm. After that is more walking walking walking. There was a traditional village set up further on the edge of town, it was 50’s and sunny, so why not walk.
The village was cool, nobody lived in the old houses, but they were all done up well with nice exhibits inside each one - woodworking, clothes making, charcoal making, a wedding house, you name it. And I basically had the place to myself.
Back at the guesthouse it was pretty quiet, I just took it easy for the night and had a cheap dinner from the convenience store. The next day I check out some Japanese kitsch museum in the morning and then it was on the bus to Shirakawa-go village, which is a Unesco Heritage site.
So many similar consumer products and electronics to us, but so many differences!
It’s famous for those traditional farmhouses with the steep thatched roofs, called Gassho-Zukuri. Which means hands folded in prayer, supposed to be similar to the way the buddha holds his hands. I guess you can also book some of them for the night, which sounded kinda cool. There’s not exactly a ton of stuff to do there, but it is neat to see for a few hours!
Then back on the bus to get home. And fortunately I found an Aussie guy to go get some off that beef with. They have popular restaurants called Yakiniku where you have your own little hot plate and they bring out the slice of raw beef (among other things) and you just cook it yourself on the grill. Just a little sear on each side and that’s all you need!
So it was finally time to head out of Tokyo for good. I figured I’d be on the road for two weeks, so I bought a Japan Rail Pass for 14 days. This gives you access to almost all the major railways and bullet trains. You can’t book the fastest ones though. Although the ones you can book are certainly fast enough! It’s not exactly cheap though, a bit under $400 for the two weeks, but man is traveling by bullet train just about the best way to travel in the whole world. It used to be you had to buy this pass outside the country, but not anymore. I picked mine up at Tokyo Station the same morning I wanted to hit the road.
First stop: Nagano! These trains go often, I only had about 10 minutes from buying my ticket to departure time. But it’s really easy to find the Shinkansen area, find your track number, and you’re there. Inside the train the seats are comfy, plenty of legroom, and very easy to get a window seat as the trains are not very crowded this time of year. I never even had someone next to me the entire duration of the pass! I pulled down the tray, set down my coffee and opened up my laptop to go through some photos, all while having time to watch the scenery go by while throttling along at 300 km/hr. Smooth as a whistle. So nice. We were there in an hour!
I want this house, holy crap
Now, off to find my guesthouse. I guess I expected to see a bit more mountains, as Nagano is one of the mid-level cities everyone knows about because of it hosting the winter Olympics. But I guess most of the snow is further out in the mountain resorts and not so much in the actual city of Nagano. Oh well. It’s really kind of weird walking around in some of these cities, outside of a few main streets, there’s just so few cars! I mean zero traffic. It feels a little eerie. But there’s plenty of people walking around and on bicycles. And the roads are just in such good shape, everything seems to be recently paved, shiny, no potholes, no litter, it’s just very satisfying walking around. You could eat off the damn streets. I don’t know how they do it.
so clean, so smooth, so shiny
I booked a 4 person room at a guesthouse that included an ensuite kitchen and small dining area. It had 2 sets of bunk beds, but it’s not like usual dorm beds, they’re like fully contained capsule-like beds. I met the owner and he gave the rundown, a shockingly long list of things, where to put your shoes, what lights to turn on and when, rules for the kitchen, what to put in each type of garbage bin, how to use the remotes, dimming the lights, using hot water, damn. They like running a tight orderly ship in Japan! Hopefully I was putting my toiletries in right spot on the shower caddy! I’d be sharing the room with just one South Korean guy, although he didn’t really speak English, so I was kinda on my own.
I dropped off my big bag and headed right back to the train station as I wanted to get to Matsumoto castle, maybe 50 minutes away by train, covered by the railpass. Although I screwed up and booked the local train instead of the express, so make that an hour and half! Didn’t matter though, I still had plenty of time. The castle was a 20 minute walk from town. Once again, fantastic looking town. Lots of cute cafes, French pastry places, just generally well designed and decorated shops and building, and if my ice cream bar happened to fall off the stick onto the road, I’d be happy to lick it off.
So onto the castle, it was built around 1600, needed for the great clan wars going on at the time. At the entrance they offered a free English speaking guide, but he was about 75 and spoke really bad English, so took a pass. Kind of a nice gesture though! The inside of the castle is actually kind of dull, as they were mostly used for stockpiling weapons and munitions and having strategy meetings, nobody actually lived in them. Although they did have a cool display of lots of old guns, and a decent a view of the city from the 6th and final floor. But I honestly preferred walking around the outside and taking photos, it’s a helluva good looking building, with a moat. Really nice moat. Great moat.
After the sun went down, at around 4:00 since it went behind the mountains, I had some time to mosey around town a bit and then hop on the express train this time, back to Nagano. I found some Ramen place that looked inviting, as one does, and called it a night. I wanted to be up early to get out to the snow monkeys the next morning.
The town of Matsumoto in the evening
It was an hour long, 8am bus to the monkey park plus a 30 minute walk to get up to the hot spring where they like to hang out. I was kind of hoping it would be a larger area with a bunch of natural pools, but nope, just one small hot spring! They were mostly just hanging out on the sides of it, because the weather was relatively mild, unlike freezing winter temps when they chill in it for long periods of time. But I had beaten most of the tourists – the tour buses come midday, so it was a pretty tranquil experience. The monkeys also hang out up on the rocks and along the river that runs through, so it’s a bit more than just the hot spring. An hour there was plenty and then left out and decided to do a stroll to the train station an hour away. I walk so much in Japan, but it’s just so damn nice. I can’t recommend it enough. Especially when it’s 50’s and sunny.
a chirpy bunch
this one is having a good time!
The onsen in the background
Here’s the onsen, or Japanese hot spring resort type place
It was a slow moving local train, but that’s fine. I got off a few stops away from downtown Nagano at the Zenko Ji temple. This one is an old one, started in 650 AD, not long after Buddhism was spreading through Japan. This temple was created to enshrine a large budda image. In front is a walking street with all sorts of sweets and street food, the regional specialty being a wheat bun, fried, and filled with mostly vegetables like pumpkin, or radish, leeks, or mushrooms. Not bad! Very earthy. A little bit different. And then apple pie pastry for dessert, mmm.
nice countryside around here
Zenko Ji Temple
Back at the guesthouse this time there was a Japanese guy, who spoke no English or pretended to – seriously the level of English is Japan was much worse than I was expecting. And then there was a young Czech guy, who was trying to get a visa to stay in Japan for a bit and learning Japanese. Not a bad idea when you’re 23! We went out for some gyoza, fried pork dumplings, which you can never go wrong with. I’m wondering what food you can go wrong with. The next day it was a train to the mountainy (hilly) town of Takayama, known for their high quality beef.
So many cool looking places!
This time around I stayed on the east side of the city, which is a bit more chill than the west side. My neighborhood was called Asakusa, which has a huge temple that gets really busy. It seems to be where all the girls go to get their traditional kimono photos in. Although some do drag their boyfriends along in their yukatas! Then there’s all sort of street food and endless alleyways of shops. Pretty cool area. Although at night it empties out pretty quickly.
Next up is the William Mori Tower skydeck, located in Roppongi
Next up was a thing called TeamLab Planets, and interactive immersive experience that I’d heard good things about. Lots of lights and reflections!
I had an evening to walk around Akhibara, which is Tokyo’s anime capital. It was great in the light rain with the reflections and neon lights!
I got into the town of Kawaguchiko just after dark and found my way to the guesthouse with a basic Japanese style room. It’s traditionally styled room but it’s almost completely empty with just a roll out mattress and a pillow and blanket that goes on the floor! Alrighty then. I didn’t go out for food until after 8:00 and to my surprise everything was closed. Quiet little town! 7-11 it is! The nice thing is all the convenience stores have pretty good food options, surprisingly good food options - so I had some microwaveable pork char siu, with veggies and an omelet topped over white rice, and it cost $4! And then I had a few pieces of sushi to boot. Really not a bad dinner.
I set my alarm at 5am, looked out the window, and there it was, Fuji, the big beautiful bastard! The weather had held up, right at the perfect time. I happily gathered my stuff together and headed out towards the big lake nearby to scout out some good photo spots at sunrise. Although I think my favorite photo was actually looking back at the mountain from the street just two minutes away from my guesthouse.
Once I made it to the bridge over the lake I was not alone, there were definitely a few other photographer types out there, and with good reason. I wandered around for a bit and found a few decent photo opportunities, but nothing that was really enthralling. It really was too bad most of the fall colors were finished! Oh well. It was still a great morning and it was a very pleasant walk back to town for breakfast. Then it was time to rent a bike for the day.
I had a good 20 mile circuit mapped out and thankfully the weather was just perfect, 50 and sunny. Like basically all forms of transportation in Japan, getting around by bicycle around is a very pleasurable experience. The road are immaculate, there are bike lanes everywhere, cars drive slow, and outside of the main roads, there seems to be hardly any traffic. Definitely one of the biggest surprises I’d find in Japan was just how not-crowded the streets are. In the US all these little side streets would get taken up by cars looking to the avoid the traffic jams on the main roads. So I really like using a bike to get around.
Along the way I made pit stops at a Shinto shrine in the woods, a little hobbit-like tourist town – I think I caught the tour buses because it was jammed, the old part of town, and did a hike up to a temple with views overlooking Fuji. So it was another successful tourist day, although I wouldn’t have minded another morning to go out and take more photos. But I already had my Tokyo hotel booked, so off I went.
The next day I checked out and wanted to get outside of Tokyo for a bit. I took a train to Yokohama, left my bag at another capsule hotel (they’re so convenient because there’s always one right next to the train station) and then hopped right back on the train (it’s so easy!) to a place called Kamakura. Temples galore! The Kamakura period (1192-1333) was important because it marked when the shogunate, who were basically military dictators, took power from the emperor and the court, and were the primary source of government. It was the start of feudalism in Japan. I wish I could have dug deeper into the history, as I find it fascinating, but I mostly spent my time there walking from temple to temple, trying to get as many in as I could! Also it gets dark by 4:30 pm, so there’s no time to waste! So here’s lots of Kamakura photos!
I made it back to Yokohama in the evening and had time to head to the downtown and up to the observation deck to see the view of the whole city. It really puts things in perspective how built of the entire area is. I wished I had more time to check out the waterfront park, which is supposed to be really cool and futuristic, but alas I was in a bit of hurry the next day. According to the weather, there would actually be one clear day! The day after tomorrow, and I wanted to get to Mt. Fuji for that. I hadn’t seen the sun thusfar on the trip. But in order to get to the base of Mt. Fuji it’d take a pretty solid travel day, so I’d be out of the capsule bright and early.
From Yokohama I thought it would be an interesting trip to get to Mt. Fuji via Hakone, a touristy hot spring town up in the hills that is accessed by a toy train. In Hakone they also have a funicular, to get you higher up the mountain, as well as cable cars to maximize your view of the scenery. So my route was going to be metro train, toy train, funicular, cable car, then bus! Really hitting all the modes of transportation in one trip. Just needed a boat ride!
Unfortunately as the train got higher up into the hills the sun went away and it was cold and cloudy in Hakone town. I stopped at a touristy breakfast place that serves these big fluffy pancakes. Overpriced but delicious! I would come to really like the Japanese style of pancakes and French toast. I had a walk through the park, but it was starting to drizzle, so I didn’t stay long. On to the funicular and cable car. It was about 40 degrees and raining, so there were no views to be had, except for the sulfur mine that you pass over. I was glad I was traveling through and not staying in Hakone, like I originally thought of doing. Once off the cable car it was two hours of buses and I was in the town of Kawaguchiko, at the base of Mt Fuji by 5pm. Although I was hoping to get there in time for some sunset photos around 4:30, but with the clouds it didn’t matter either way. The forecast for tomorrow was good though. Fingers crossed!
Well another night in the capsule. I woke up to more cloudy and drizzling weather, so back to sleep for a bit and then another dazzling breakfast of raw egg and rice. This is considered comfort food in Japan! It stopped raining around noon so I was off to another park. Although the word park isn’t heavy hitting enough, it’s a park on steroids. On the menu today would be the Meiji Jingu shrine and encompassing grounds, which were dedicated to the deified spirits of the very famous Emperor Meiji and his wife. In Japanese history the Meiji period, or the Meiji restoration was an extremely important time in Japan when the mostly isolated and feudal society began to industrialize rapidly develop with many western ideas and influences. So here’s some shots of the place, the fall colors still just hanging on…
After that I was off to Harajuku, the ostentatious fashion capital of Tokyo, which draws a bold, young crowd. You can see girls dressed in doll-like outfits (called Lolita) with lots of whites and pinks, plenty of lace. Often with dyed blond or maybe pink hair. There’s also the more edgy goth version of that as well, which is kinda cool. And there’s a good amounts of schoolgirl outfits to boot, which Japan seems to be quite fond of.
It’s the capital of Kawaii, which the easiest translation is ‘being cute’. So it’s definitely an interesting place to walk around. It’s a fashion hub, so tons of clothing stores as well as sweet shops. I bought candied strawberries. Cute. And a coffee with foam art. Super cute! You could pay even more and get 3d foam art, whoa. Walking around I didn’t really take many pictures of the outfits because it felt too weird aiming my camera at groups of young girls, but it really is one of the more unique places in the world to have a gander. Oh and speaking of unique, I also went to a café where you can hold hedgehogs and chinchillas!
the shell
Photo stolen from the internet, girls on Takeshita street
me holding a hedgehog. The novelty doesn’t last long!
3-d foam art
this is what candied strawberries look like. Pretty tasty!
Then it was back on the train back to my hotel in Shinjuku and after another dip in the hot spring, then back to the free drinks lounge. I pieced through their collection of anime books, which seem to delve into softcore porn every 10 pages. Hmm. Another white guy chatted me up, a guy from LA, named Steve, who’d been to Tokyo many many times. So we ended up going out in Kabukicho for a bit. I played pachinko for the first time, which is kinda like a less skilled version of pinball where you fire off metal ball bearings through a bunch of metal pins and hope to land them in the middle gate, which triggers a jackpot reel (basically like a slot machine) where you’re hoping to get three of the same numbers to send your machine into overdrive. This of course never happened to me, but I was told that’s what would happen! Your winning are the amount of metal balls you collect in your basket and then eventually you can call the attendant and exchange your basket of balls for prizes. It’s crazy popular, there’s literally rows and rows of people playing this game in the arcades!
Next we went to get some ramen, and then it was off to the Golden Gai area, which is that stretch of a few blocks of narrow alleyways packed with tiny bars, jammed in one after another and on top of one another! It’s a super cool spot. I was really glad to go with someone else, who knew spoke some Japanese, as each bar is usually only 6-10 seats at the bar and that’s it! There’s not a lot of English spoken, although the so it’s kind of intimidating for a first timer. Although the bartenders seem to know enough. First we went to a whisky bar, where I learned the highball is an extremely popular drink in Japan, which is just whisky and some soda water.
We ended up hopping around to a few different spots, with whisky certainly being the drink of choice, and if you want cheaper you’ve got shochu, some sort of grain alcohol. I noticed that the only time local people will actually try and converse with you in English is when they’re a bit tipsy, so that was kind of a nice change of pace. Normally when you’re walking around Japan, even though you’re a foreigner, nobody pays you any mind, at all. Of course it’s great that nobody is bothering you or trying to sell you stuff, but compared to other Asian countries, China in particular, it’s like you’re invisible. In China it sometimes get’s a bit annoying having people come up to you to practice their English, that doesn’t happen in Japan! So it was nice to actually to actually chat with some Japanese guys, even if it was not exactly the best English. It was a nice little night out.
Ended the night at a 3 story McDonalds
Shibuya Crossing
For my first full day in Japan I slept in and then sauntered downstairs to the café area to get some food. Specifically egg-rice, mmm. I filled up a bowl of rice, cracked the egg in it, stirred it real good so everything became fluffy and yellow, added soy sauce, pickles, and crunchy things, and there you have it, a simple Japanese breakfast! Of course there are lots of different Japanese breakfasts, but this would be my first one – and 2nd and 3rd, as I was there for three nights and will not say no to free food. And it’s not bad! I mean I wouldn’t got out of my way to eat it, but it was reasonably tasty. I did google the raw egg situation in Japan first to investigate if it’s totally normal to eat raw eggs, and I guess they’re rated to that higher standard by the health inspectors or whatever, so good enough for me!
After a hop in the artificial hot spring and shower I was ready for my first walk around in the daylight. It was pretty gloomy weather, cloudy, a bit drizzly, reminded me of the winter in China, where the sun never came out, just a penetrating white fog that always felt colder than it really was. Nonetheless, I had places to be – I figured I’d start a few blocks away at a famous park in the city, the Shinjuku gardens, which used to be specifically for the imperial family. Now open to the for 500 yen or about $3.50. I certainly have no qualms paying for a park as stylish as this, they do an amazing job with the plants and keeping everything very well kept an impeccably manicured. It was one of the last days of November and my timing was just a little late, I had missed most of the peak autumn foliage, rats! But there were still some maple trees, unhurried to lose their leaves, which boasted some fiery oranges and reds, stealing the show from the more lackluster surroundings.
It’s tough to not take a ton of photos in Japan!
It had stopped drizzling, so it ended up being a very enjoyable place for a stroll, beautiful landscaping with few people around. Nice. After two hours of walking plus a matcha latte stop, it was off to the train station and a very quick ride to the world’s busiest intersection, Shibuya crossing. I hopped off the train with the horde and found my way to street level, where I quickly remembered I was umbrella-less, total rookie move. The rain had picked up again and everyone, I mean everyone had one. In my luggage all I had packed was a poncho, but wearing a crumply bag over your body would be just too boorish American compared to the sharply dressed Japanese. Nobody dresses down in Tokyo. Athletic gear? I don’t think so. I felt like a bum wearing hiking pants, trail runners, and a hoody. I couldn’t possibly know, but were the locals silently judging me? The answer is yes, yes they were.
I arrived at the six-way intersection behind the crowd and watched the digital advertisements on the screen. Louis Vitton had teamed up with a famous red wig wearing Japanese contemporary artist who is somehow 93 years old and she’s still going strong! The ads were synchronized on multiple huge screens. Then the lights all turned green and started gently beeping, a soothing beeping, that slowly picked up pace as it got closer to the red light. All the pedestrians crossed through the intersection at once in all directions. Organized chaos. So many umbrellas! On the other side I was hoping to visit a particular rooftop deck for viewing, but it was closed in the rain, so I went to the next best thing, Starbucks! It had a shop right in the heart of the intersection and the 2nd floor had huge glass windows for viewing. Those were some hot seats to get! I ordered a cappuccino and looked for any place to sit, but that wasn’t happening. But I was able to fire off some shots of the intersection which looked pretty neat with the sea of umbrellas around. Although not quite as jam packed as I was expecting!
Eventually the rain slowed to barely a drizzle and I was able to walk around Shibuya. Normally I would hate being in a cold drizzle, but when you’ve got bright city lights everywhere, reflections, well-dressed people with their stylish clear umbrellas, it makes for some pretty cool street photography! So I was just kinda standing off in the distance creeping around with my telephoto lens trying to get some interesting shots. The nice thing about photography as a hobby is I can keep myself entertained very easily if I’ve got the right shooting conditions. And when the neon lights turn on in Tokyo you’ll always have great shooting conditions!
After I had gotten wet enough it was back on the the train and only a few minutes to Shinjuku. You literally never have to wait more than a few minutes for these trains, it’s marvelous. Moving this many people, especially through the major train stations, is a work of art. Shinjuku station is basically a mini-mall with a myriad of restaurants and I couldn’t help but follow my nose to a French patisserie and grab a coffee and toasty golden brown mushroom and onion toasty thing, mmm. The quality of the food at train stations, and even convenience stores is very solid!
I went back to the hotel, swapped into my PJs and was off to the spa area to relax after a solid tourist day. Naked in the hot spring with a bunch of Japanese guys. I could get used to this! I meant hitting the spa immediately after a full day of touristy escapades, not seeing all the ballsacks flopping around! Next it was up to the cafe to indulge in the free booze. I was kinda liking this capsule hotel setup. The downside was it’s not a very social place, so meeting other foreigners to hang out with was probably not going to happen, as it was 95% Japanese.
It ended up raining the whole night, so I stayed in, still annoyed by the fact I didn’t have a stupid umbrella. Although eventually I did have to make a run two blocks away to a late night ramen place for dinner, as I was not eating egg rice for dinner. Ramen just really hits the spot in a chilly rainy Tokyo evening. Fantastic. When I was leaving they offered me an umbrella, which I thought was weird because do they expect me to return it to them the next day? Keep it?! I politely declined and made the jog back to the hotel in the rain, but it would have been nice to have that umbrella! I did find out the next day that if you ask reception they’re happy to give you one, haha.
Somehow I haven’t been Japan yet! Time to change that! I suppose it’s expensive by my usual travel standards but with the dollar being so strong right now, and it being low season, and Japan finally re-opening just six weeks earlier I decided it’s time for a new experience. Plus everyone seems to love Japan. First I visited my sister in Seattle, who shockingly had already beat me to Japan a few years ago, and then two days later I was on a 10 hour flight to Tokyo, which was a relative breeze compared to the 15 hours it usually takes me to get to Asia via Hong Kong or Shanghai from Chicago. No delays whatsoever, I landed in Tokyo Narita in no time. Although Narita really is in the middle of nowhere so it was a long (but no stress) train into the city. I had booked a men’s capsule hotel for the first three nights that just two blocks away from Shinjuku station, one of the major hubs in the city.
Having never been to a capsule hotel before, the whole process was quite interesting; it was explained to me in some very broken English and with a pamphlet. They love their pamphlets in Japan. It was a good thing I’d read enough reviews online to get the idea of what’s going on. You don’t take any of your luggage upstairs, you store your clothes and valuables in a locker and they give you a yukata to wear, basically a robe plus drawstring pants and slippers. Everyone wears these all throughout the ‘hotel’. If you have big luggage it get stashed on top of the lockers, out in the open, free for anyone to take or rifle through! You just have to trust that nothing will happen to it. Which it won’t, because Japan! Heading up to the next floor is the spa area, which has an artificial hot spring and sauna as well as washing stations, which are done sitting down on a stool. Hmm. There’s no curtains or dividers or anything and of course everyone is butt naked, as to be expected in Japan. Get used to it!
The next floor up is the cafe/lounge area, where they have free soft drinks, coffee, miso soup, and rice + raw eggs. I had to spy on other people, but you crack the egg and mix it in thoroughly with the rice, add in some soy sauce and crunchy stuff, and there’s your snack! And yes, I guess that eating raw eggs is super common in Japan, they have high standards for their egg safety apparently! There is also free booze from 6-12pm and hundreds of anime books if you want something to peruse. Some being a bit risqué, but it is an all men’s place! Then there’s the capsules on the top floors, basically a big room lined with individual sleeping pods, either on ground level or higher up, about shoulder level. These ones didn’t have doors that close, just curtains for privacy for each pod. The pods all have outlets for charging, a light, and a mini fan. Basically a slightly improved hostel dorm bed setup.
The toilets are also worth talking about, as when you open the stall door, the lid opens up for you! How welcoming. And then when your butt hits the seat you will satisfactorily notice a slight warming sensation. Heated seats too! Each toilet also has full bidet options, where you can control the stream and water pressure aimed at your bum. It kinda tickles! There’s also a flushing noises button in case you’re making too many loud awkward noises that you’d like to disguise without actually flushing! Just great stuff all around. The Japanese really have done all they can to make pooping a more enjoyable experience. And this is one of the joys of traveling in Japan, very high standard of living but with so many little (and often better) differences from the West.
So with this hotel setup it felt annoying at first having almost all of your stuff downstairs in a locker, but once I had my toiletries and chargers and stuff in my cube I started to come around on the idea. And I must admit, I did enjoy being able to have a long day out around town and then be able to come back and get into the pajama clothes and then hop right into the spa. The problem was getting motivated to put back on my regular clothes to go out again at night!
And Shinjuku is definitely a place you want to go out at night! My place was just a few blocks away from Kabukicho, the main nightlife district, filled with the bright lights, clubs, arcades, and more. Any movies that involve after dark scenes in Tokyo are usually set in this area. It’s an iconic spot and good place for a first timer in the Tokyo! Of course I was running on fumes from my 10 hour flight, but I had to eat something so it was off into the neon lit streets of Kapukicho.
The first thing I noticed about Tokyo, is it does not cater as well as thought to English speakers. Checking into the hotel was not particularly straightforward. On the streets every single place with advertisements, drink specials, or food menus out front was all Japanese, almost no English. I was also expecting more foreigners to be around, and I’d spot some here or there, but we were certainly in a small minority. Not that I cared, I was just enjoying walking around. I stepped through arcade, which I guess was multiple floors, and it was packed with people staring at screens and pushing buttons, beeping, whirring, and chiming. Next door was a claw machine place where you stick in some coins and try to snack the cute stuffed animal. It looked impossible as far as I could tell.
One thing I liked was how small and unique so many of the places seemed to be. Lots of the bars and restaurants were very narrow strips with mostly bar seating and maybe a few two person tables. Nothing exemplifies this more than the Golden Gai section of Shinjuku, which is a mass collection of sardine can bars all jammed in next to and on top of one another. It’s a very cool spot. But it seemed kind of intimidating to me, not knowing any Japanese, to stop in such a small and intimate setting! I’d pop in another night.
One of the alleys at Golden Gai
famous street called Drunkard’s Alley
Kabukicho is apparently Tokyo’s biggest red light district, but I read it’s been cleaned up a lot from the past - or at least outwardly. There’s very little signs of it on the streets, but as with many things in Japan, there’s more than meets the eye. I did notice that the Japanese seem to have a fondness for privacy, so many establishments didn’t have windows or views inside, you really have no idea what is happening behind closed doors. I heard that lots of the businesses are also run by the Yakuza, so you don’t want to be pissing off any of the wrong people!
After a bit more wandering and snapping a few photos here and there – it’s a great place for street photography – I really needed something in my stomach. So eventually I found a busy ramen place with bar seating and pictures on the menu so in no time I was slurping down some noodles in a rich creamy pork broth, listening to others doing the same. The Japanese may be very polite and respectful in general, but those type of manners do not apply when sucking down noodles, it seems to be encouraged to be as loud and obnoxious as possible! I paid the bill, which was about $8 and it was back off to the hotel to crash.
That’s 24K gold you’re looking at
Even before I got to the Golden Temple, I liked Amritsar immediately. My bus pulled in at 9am, from a 5am start (why why why must they have these obnoxiously early start times?!) and right away you could tell it was a place that had that hustle and bustle. Lots of rickshaws driven by Sikh men with their flowing shirts and white beards, competing on the road with the cars and rickshaws. I’m a sucker for old towns, and Amritsar’s old town feels very old, borderline falling apart, with building that looked to be hundreds of years old. You could tell the Indian government certainly wasn’t pumping any money into this area.
rickshaws fighting for space in the narrow streets
You never know what you’re gonna see just walking around
The state of Punjab is where the majority of the Sikhs in the world live, 16 million of them, almost 60% of the population. There is also a sizable diaspora worldwide, with Canada’s population being almost 2% Sikh. You can easily tell the Sikh men by their turban, although many people confuse the look for being Muslim. Uncut hair is one of the pillars of Sikhism and the turbans are worn to show equality within the group.
The street right outside the temple
The religion itself was started in the 1400’s and was distinct from Hinduism and Islam, with a focus on equality of man, which was at major odds with the caste system in India. The Golden Temple was built in 1604 and then rebuilt in the 1800’s where it was inlaid with gold, and then more gold added in the 90’s. It’s the crown jewel of Sikhism and is the 3rd most visited holy site in the entire world. So it gets a lot of people! And it’s open to anyone who wishes to come.
the view at sunrise
As I mention before, it also operates the world’s largest free kitchen (called a Langar), serving 100,000 people a day. Volunteers run the kitchen, rolling the rotis, cutting vegetables, adding the spices to the huge vats of dhal. Everyone gets one metal serving tray and a bowl to keep dishes to a minimum. You sit in parallel lines and the different servers come by with rollable canisters of water, rice, dhal, and the rotis. You just signal to whoever is walking by and they’ll put the food on your plate. It’s not glamorous, but the system is definitely efficient. It’s a sight to see such a large communal eating experience all in one place. And the amount of volunteers is seriously impressive!
Of course now that I’m out of the mountains it’s back to being 113f in the middle of day, so I was happy to take a short walk and around and find a mango lassi, and then retreat back to room to relax for most of the day. It is kind of nice, they have water stations set up around town to make sure people are properly hydrated, they never wash the cups though! At one of the stores nearby I found what was basically a giant chunk of strawberry fruit roll up, which became my new favorite snack. In the late afternoon I finally meandered over to the temple. The sheer amount of people around, even though it’s hot as balls outside, is certainly noteworthy. I can only imagine how many people are there in the peak season.
You never know who you’re gonna meet walking around. This guy had albino rats who lived on his shoulders!
To get in you have to take off your shoes and wear a headscarf, which they have a huge bin of right outside the entrances. Best to wear sandals so you don’t have to worry about them, just chuck ‘em somewhere. They’ll check inside your bag, and then you’re good to go. Hopefully you don’t mind dirty feet! If you’re a germaphobe, India is not the country for you! Immediately you can see the temple through the arched entranceway, albeit over a bunch of heads all trying to get a look at the same thing, it does make an impression! Once you head down the stairs you can see the grandiosity of the whole complex, from the huge lake, the sheer amount of gold, the intricacies carved into the marble, and just that palpable religious energy. You’re expected to walk clockwise around the perimeter (the lake) where they have mats laid out because the marble gets really hot in the day! Every single spot in the shade is taken up by worshippers who are staying at the temple for who knows how long. It takes about 30 minutes to do the loop, and what a loop it is!
first look
tea delivery
It’s definitely worth it to visit the temple at least twice, once in the early morning around sunrise when they do the chanting of the prayers and once around sunset, where the color of temple’s golden color really seems to radiate just after the sun goes down. It’s just way too hot during the middle of the day though. You can visit the guru inside the middle of the actual temple, but the lines are just crazy long, at all hours of the day, so I decided to take a pass on that. And I did get one meal at the langar, which is certainly a unique experience. I also didn’t see another white person around, so I did get lots of attention, definitely more than I would have liked. It wasn’t just peace and contemplation, I had lots of people chatting me up, requesting selfies, trying to get me to show up at their English class, asking what I do for a living, warning me of the moral bankruptcy of gambling for a living, etc! But still, the Golden Temple is one of the coolest places in all of India! Here’s a few night shots to finish up…
not a bad way to spend an evening
Colorful Tosh
After getting down from the Hampta pass and back to Manali I had one night to recover my concrete block legs and then it was off to the Parvati Valley, specifically the village of Tosh. The whole valley is known as the hash capital of India and the police simply look the other way, as it provides the livelihoods to many of the villagers. Traditionally Kasol is the most commercialized village that gets more Indians and Tosh is higher up in the mountains and gets more Europeans and Israelis, so many it’s nicknamed Little Israel. It is (or was) a hugely popular place for young Israeli’s to go after finishing up their military stints. I was a little skeptical because large groups of young Israeli’s have not been the most pleasant groups of people to be around, but at the same time I hadn’t talked to anyone who wasn’t Indian in well over a week and I wouldn’t meeting some more foreign tourists. Plus the setting of the village is gorgeous!
The old temple that you can’t touch
I like that it’s more like a town with actual inhabitants than a tourist strip
I was able to take a bus most of the way there, then it was another bus to get to the village right below Tosh, and then a shared taxi from there to climb the potholed road, and then a nice sized walk to get to the accommodation. Easy! If you can’t tell I’m starting to get a bit worn out from all the mountain transportation at this point. This trip, which included at least 30 minutes mountainside gridlock, took over 6 hours to go 60 miles total! Sigh. I did meet some Indians on the bus to who wanted to hang out, although I couldn’t help but sounding like a snob when I didn’t want to stay in some crowded $4 dorms with them. I had a nice room with a western bathroom, good mattress, view and balcony in mind. We exchanged numbers to do dinner together. Spending $15-20 on a room seems crazy cheap in USD, but for these young Indian guys, that’s prohibitively expensive.
my view
Anyway the place I wanted was booked out, but I could stay next door for $10, also with a balcony and view! So fine by me. Finally some real time to relax! I did absolutely nothing that afternoon, and then did next nothing the whole next day, great stuff! Just sipping on mango lassies and watching the birds go by. I had certainly not had enough R&R days on this trip. I couldn’t take too many days off because I had a deadline and I wanted to get in enough of Pakistan! Oh and somewhere around this time my visa did eventually get approved for Pakistan, nice. I did have to fork out an extra $100 for a Letter of Invitation, which I was told weren’t needed for most applicants. Annoying.
Curiously there were very few Israeli’s and yet again, almost all domestic tourists. And they all seemed to be doing this one hike called the Kheerganga trek and camping overnight. I also did it, but woke up early to pump it out in the morning and avoid the crowds. Compared to the other stuff I’d done it was woefully underwhelming, and at the end is dozens and dozens of stationary tents and campgrounds where all the Indian tourists spend the night, hundreds of tents. Ugh, not my thing at all. Everything popular in India has to involve tons of other people around. You don’t even have a nice view of the mountains from where the camps are located! Anyway I was glad I was doing it as a day hike. There’s also some hot springs, which is was the one redeeming factor of the hike, and I forgot by swim trunks, doh.
The next day I checked out of the guesthouse and stopped by a Sikh holy temple called Manikaran, which also had hot springs, and I did have my suit! The popular holy sites in India are pretty damn great, there’s nothing like them in the world. The Sikh sites in particular are cool because they staff massive kitchens that feed everyone who comes, for free, no matter who you are. At the Golden Temple in Amritsar they feed 100,000 people a day during the busy seasons, crazy. So of course I grabbed a platter and took a spot on the floor where they served up rice, chapatis, dhal, and potatoes. It’s a cool experience! Even when I get frustrated with India, the unique experience of a place like Manikaran perks me back up again.
After Manikaran, lots more buses! A few hours to get down the mountains, a few hours to another city, a few more to Dharmshala, and then a 30 minute taxi ride up into the hills to Mcleod Ganj, and further up, a 9 hour day. Mcleod Ganj is the home of the Dalai Lama and is nicknamed Little Tibet, you can see monks strolling everywhere around the streets. Where I was staying (Bagsu Village) was further in the hills was a bit more calm, more of a western style hangout. Foreigners like to come here for yoga and meditation courses, energy healing, that kind of stuff. You get more of the longer term crowd who get an apartment for a month or a few months.
You can also find western breakfasts! Where I was traveling you might be able to find western lunch/dinner options, stuff like burgers, chicken sandwiches, pasta, pizza etc, but the Indian + Tibetan dinner cuisine is diverse enough that I usually didn’t eat much western food. But what does not seem to exist up north is anything other than bread omelets (usually greasy and overcooked eggs on two pieces of toast) and parantha (a type of fried flatbread, usually with onions or potatoes inside) for breakfast. I had literally started my day with those two dishes for weeks straight! So I was more than thankful to be able to eat something like a fruit salad with yogurt and granola, or avocado toast with poached eggs, or French toast with berries. With a decent cappuccino. Yessss.
boring!
So it was nice to hang out here a couple of days and chill, drinking good coffee, reading my book, editing some photos, getting some massages. You could even smoke hookah. Of course there is one popular trek that I felt compelled to do, the triund, 3 hours up, 2 down, with some great views of the mountains in the background. Although compared to some of the scenery I’d already seen, this trek was a bit underwhelming (I’m spoiled, I know). Also very crowded. Everything in Northern India this time of year is just so crowded! But nothing compared to the crowds at the Golden Temple!
I awoke with my alarm bright and early at 4:45am, first light. I had already packed up all my stuff, I wasn’t exactly eager to remain in the cheapest lodgings of the trip so far, a stand-alone building/garage with some cheap beds in it, $4 for the night. I rolled up the squeaky garage door to the dismay of the one other person sleeping there, and I was on my way, snack in hand. I crossed the bridge over the river, passed some tents, and easily found the start (or end) of the trail.
The usual way that 98% of people do this hike is starting from Manali and finishing where I’m starting, using a tour company, staying in their tents, fully cooked dinners and breakfasts, donkeys to lug up all the stuff, etc. The whole production. It’s the same standard package at every single fricking tour company, the 4 days/3 night tour. Sooo slow! Independent trekking still isn't a big thing yet here in India. One the previous week I had emailed a bunch of the big companies wondering if I could just get a guide, and ONLY a guide to do the trek in reverse, where I carry all my own stuff and do my own meals, and we finish the whole thing in 2d/1n. Absolute crickets on this request! Not a single response! Ahh screw it, I’ll do it by myself. I’ve got my offline map, it’s a well trodden route, what could go wrong?!
The previous night I’d already seen from the road that there might be a tricky part right at the beginning, a large section of snow/ice going all the way down to the river, but it appeared to have a path cut through it. It looked very steep from the road, but once I got up to it the angle wasn’t so bad. But what worried me was how deeply frozen it was. I started to cross, but if you got further out and happened to slip, you’d slide all the way down into the freezing, rushing river. Nope Nope, too risky. It would probably be fine in the afternoon once the snow thawed and you could cut out steps, but not all slicked up at 5am, no sir-e-bob.
So it’s either go back or go around. Around it is, arghh! Already lots more work than I hoped. I scrambled 45 minutes uphill until I could finally get around the sheet of snow/ice. Hard work! By this time I was already so far up above the trail that I wondered if I could just meet up with trail a bit later. As I kept going it looked like I probably could, the only problem being that I was on the wrong side of the river and I’d have to find a good way to cross, which might be difficult. Eventually the river flattened out a bit and I’d have my chance. I tested out a few spots, didn’t really love any of them, but eventually settled on a route that took me on a long diagonal.
the trail going up, finally the sun coming out
The important thing on these crossings, besides not crossing anywhere too deep, is to have enough rocks above the surface to be able to rest a hand on for stability. It’s very easy to have your foot slip from the slick rocks of the riverbed, especially when you’re not wearing shoes - and you really really do not want to fall all the way in. I took off my shoes and socks, strapped them to my bag, got out of my hiking pants and started across. The water was absolutely freezing and flowing at a good clip. It didn’t take long before my feet were going numb, but I had to keep moving. My feet were getting so cold that I thought about stopping, climbing on a rock and attempting to warm them up, but nahh, just gotta keep going. Towards the end my feet might as well have been bricks, it was hard to place them as I literally could not feel them at all. Finally I scampered to the other side, quickly dried them off on a sunny rock and tried to smack some life into them. Come on!
I think this was the coldest my feet had ever been! I was actually somewhat paranoid that I possibly did some long-term damage to my toes. They weren’t coming back yet! Even after I started hiking again the toes on my left foot stayed tingly and not completely revived. It would be hours before they felt normal again. But hey, the good news was that I was back on the real trail! From here it was just a steady ascent further into the alpine valley, with one more annoying river crossing, and then the steep uphill climb of the pass. Soon snow started almost all of the ground, it was lovely. There was also one small lake which made for a nice photo with blanketed white peaks looming not far away.
I made my way up the weak point where I thought the trail would be, but I guess I lost it in the snow. It took me a bit of scrambling to find it and then it was straight up up up to get over the pass! Fortunately most of the trail was not snow covered, so it wasn’t as bad as I was expecting. Not long later I was looking down over a completely white valley, the mountain peaks looking very close! This was it, Hampta Pass! No prayer flags to mark it, just some absolutely outstanding views. (pictured at the top)
Then it was down some rocks and to the bottom of the valley, I’d have lots of snow to cross now. But it wasn’t steep or dangerous and it was soft enough where you could cut out your steps to make sure you didn’t slip. There were also parts with no rocks where you could sit on your butt and slide downhill for 40 or 50 feet, called glissading, and that was obviously the fun part! It took about two hours before I would get completely out of the snow, but it was mostly enjoyable.
Once the snow ended it was all standard downhill trail hiking, nice! Around 2 pm I passed the camp that all the tours sleep at before heading over the pass in the opposite direction. They were a bit surprised to see me. I said some hellos and chatted for a few minutes before heading on my way. I was in a good hiking mood and was happy to descend rapidly. From the camp I picked up two guide dogs to lead me along the way. Well one was always running ahead and waiting while the other one was happy to stay right behind my heels. It was nice to have some company.
My guide doggo
I was moving fast enough downhill that I thought I might be able to finish the whole trek in just one long day, the full 20 miles. This became my new goal. And then maybe I wouldn’t have to camp overnight – I uhh didn’t actually have a tent, but I did have a tarp and some twine, although I wasn’t sure if I wanted to use it or not! So down and down it was, passing plenty of groups slogging their way up. Judging by the facial expressions and body language, most Indians did not appear to be enjoying their hike whatsoever!
Hours passed, I had now made two more river crossings, passed another big tour group campsite, made my way through a bunch of sheep, saw some waterfalls, and I was getting pretty close to the end of the trek. My knees were hurting pretty good at this point though. I talked to a local and he said there wouldn’t be any cars to take me down if I made it to the road, and it was another few miles until the next village down the road. So while I could have made it to the road, doing an extra 3 miles past the road sounded absolutely miserable, so I decided to make camp about a mile before the road, where I still in nature and had a nice view of the valley. So technically I didn’t do the whole trek in one day, I only did 95% of it, blah blah blah.
Now all I had to do was find a flat spot with two trees about 8 to 12 feet apart where I could tie my twine across and make a little A-frame tarp/tent. Of course I could not for the life of me find two trees across from each other on a flat piece of ground, so I would have to improvise. I’m not sure the Boyscouts would be proud! But my shelter seemed to hold up, very fortunately it didn’t rain, and due the exhaustion I slept pretty damn well considering that I was not close to being comfortable!
Not pretty, but it got the job done. Thank god for no rain!
I woke up with sun in the morning, packed up and made it out to the road. It was still to early for people to be getting dropped off up there, so I decided I’d just walk down back to Manali. And fortunately there were dirt trails in between the switchbacks so you didn’t have to follow the meandering road the whole time. A few hours later I had reached the very bottom of the valley and finally flagged down a taxi to get me the couple miles to the city center where my hotel was. A very successful day and a half of hiking! I can’t say I’d recommend it my way, but I was certainly pleased with myself!
After so much high altitude desert, it was great having trees again!
Manali down below
